Thanksgiving

It was a small, but definitely warm, group gathered around our Thanksgiving table.....

turkey was yummy, as well as all the trimmings..a traditional feast !
We shared  a "toast" to our family and friends- especially those who are celebrating elsewhere: Megan and Rich, Kate and Sachin.....and those who are "looking down" from above:  my Mom who loved to gather her family around her , and David's Dad, who was just nuts about "those girls," and Mr  Davis ( Rich's grandfather who passed away on Thanksgiving Day..he had a generous nature..I just heard about the many organizations that he was active in over the years..  and was surrounded by family over the past couple days...hoping the good memories make them all smile!).
The "things" we have to be thankful for are not "things" at all, but people and good health and time to enjoy them... 

(download)

Last sail of the season

So, the last sail....ahhhh..it was a glorious Fall day....the kind that makes you glad just to be alive and breathing..
The day was sunny, mild temps in the mid 60's and blue water of Lake Erie..
sailed for about 2 hours and had the lake to ourselves for a while....then the "crowds" joined us ( about 4 boats:)
Sailing has got to be the most peaceful activity ( and when you're done with "peaceful," you can always race for a bit of excitement).
Time to wrap up the boat til next summer.

An eclectic birthday in Krakow

Talk about David's birthday being different:  the day started with a tour of the salt mines and ended with a classical piano concert....not your usual cake and ice cream kind of day, huh?
The Salt mines ( Soli w Wieliczce) are something else to see!   A whole world carved out of mountains of salt: small rooms, chapels ( so the miners could attend services), detailed scenes and figures carved from salt: everything from Snow White and the seven dwarfs to saints to historic figures.  Tour guide led us down, down, down 360 steps ( wide, wooden and not slippery) ..it's gets cooler as you descend and the humidity is kept < 60% to preserve the carvings.  Of course, there was a story to be told at each alcove...nowadays, the mine is only worked to maintain the structure and make repairs; people still have banquets and group activities in the salt mines; one room was all set up for a dinner party.( picture Thanksgiving dinner in the mines, hmmmmm).   Even when the mine was active, it was popular to tour the mines.  And, there was a bar and bar stools made of salt ( yes,I got a barstool with a back), but the bartender must have been turned into stone...David had to wait til later for his birthday toast.  The miners felt fortunate to have these jobs as they were given special privileges.  Fortunately, we did not have to ascend the stairs; there were 2 small elevators that held about 8 people each ...  looked about 100 years old...bit of a rickety ride up, but it sure beats walking UP....I asked about the cute figures and carvings for sale ( that is: won't they crumble when we get them home?) and the guide said "You have to keep them at certain humidity or it would turn to a pile of salt"--so, these beautiful lamps would just have a cord dangling from them.....needless to say, we skipped the momentos. 
The area around the mine was nicely landscaped, with paths to stroll.  
Mini bus took us back to Old Town just in time for lunch..found a cute local bistro with an enclosed patio, so it felt like eating outdoors.
Strolled back to the castle grounds and paths along the river, ambled a bit, stopped for a birthday vino at a lovely inn; we bought tickets and, later, we attended a piano concert in SS Peter and Paul Church (pietro y pawla)--circa 1668 structure with imported marble and a miraculous painting ..lovely setting for such beautiful music: Chopin mostly and a gorgeous rendition of Mendolsson's Wedding March ( never heard it played like that at  "our" weddings...soooo pretty!).  Pianist was so fluid and "into" the music....wonderful way to end David's special day! 
( PS  : we had a moment of meditation for "our" Peter and Paul...you probably felt it all  they way in Buffalo:) 

If I have any "PS's" I'll add them later, so check in again if you still haven't had enough of the latest travel adventures... 

Krakow

Let me finish a thought about Warsaw:  St Anne's Church was soooo beautiful!  Very ornate, gorgeous organ- would have been lovely to hear a concert ( and, of course, I could sing along:)
The reason it survived the war:  the parishioners got the soldiers drunk- " toasting to the memory of St Anne"..they added sedatives to the wine..soldiers woke up too late to complete the destruction- had to move on..so, wine saved the day!
With the cost of petrol soooo high, there are a lot of small cars..one was what we call the Smart Car; it was neon green and pepto bismol pink--hard to steal that one and get away unnoticed:)
Old Town in Warsaw was quaint and so picturesque..strolled and shopped and checked out little alleys and courtyards for the afternoon.  Found an authentic Polish pub:  David had pierogi and I had potato pancakes ( my father used to make them when we were kids..probably on "meatless fridays")..
 Then, to see how many different countries' dishes we can try, found an Egyptian restaurant ..had Arabic soup..and a noodle dish..great photos of the pyramids decorating the walls..don't worry, that won't be the next trip; we'll wait til they're not kidnapping the tourists or robbing tour busses en route to the pyramids...
Last night was another spa night:  hot tub and sauna were lovely!
We really enjoyed Warsaw--different that was expect ( thought it would be a industrial city scape without the culture..always heard Krakow was the place to see).

Train to Krakow - 2.5 hours..smooth ride..first class car with only 6 "couches"..pretty country side and rolling hills ..lots of small farms and individual green houses..David had his eyes glued to the gardens..
"Hoofed" it to the hotel, at the suggestion of our bus driver, Tadeus...well, Tadeus, maybe something was lost in translation, but it  was quite the hike - over cobblestones- with luggage....I was not thinking good thoughts upon arrival....Hotel Chopin is not nearly as nice as all the others on this trip ( believe it or not, the Holiday Inn in Warsaw was gorgeous!)....small rooms, no spa or amenities...oh, well, I'll tell the travel agent to cross Chopin off her list.
Spent the afternoon in the Town Square..the largest Medieval square in Europe...yes, that puts it smack on the World Heritage Sites..it's quite a bit more touristy here...busy. ,,lots of touristy shops..alleys are not so Old World or artsy...it's funny cause it's just the opposite of what was expected....I can't tell you how many people said " Oh, you'll LOVE Krakow"---don't get me wrong, it's fine, but not the artsy spot of its reputation...saw a gorgeous catherdral and castle ( gotta have a castle)...the churches are like museums with all the sculptures, stained glass, paintings, marble, bas relief etc....in fact, we haven't been to an art museum at all this trip...the art is found in so many other places..
Had lunch at another Polish restaurant, of course: David tried Kielbasa and sauerkraut and I tried beef goulash ( very different from ours- lots of beef pieces and 2 beef cutlets in a tasty red sauce; but, no noodles or rice ( not that I haven't had enough carbs to choke a horse...yikes!)..
Sore throat and cold thingy seemed to go around our group...David and I had to lay low a bit later today...got some meds from Pharmacy ( God only knows what it really is, but...)..that and tea and red wine should kill the germs.
And, I made reservations for the salt mine tour tomorrow..I know, it sounds awful, but it's one of the top ten museum/sites in the world..whole alcoves, chapels, statues etc made of salt..we get to go down into the mines for 2 km...have to dress warm...will probably think about salt differently after we see what it takes to get it to the Moton Salt box....it's still a functioning mine. but it doesn't seem like the "post-retirement" job that dreams are made of:)
We'll celebrate David's birthday with a lovely dinner and "toasts" and maybe a concert in the evening....
Since no news is good news, I'm glad there were no phone messages....always nice to have an email,though,  cause I know that's a cheery greeting.
Thanks for following along to the Baltic Nations and Poland and Finland.....Clark photo will be busy printing a bunch of photo memories, that of course I'll share ( fair warning!).
bye of now..catch up with everyone when we get home.

A day in Warsaw

Here I am back again so soon...lucky to get a computer before dinner-time...
Let's see:  we're staying in city center, rather than Old town in Warsaw....city is a lot nicer and more modern than expected...lots of activity, modern buildings, good transportation, and shopping, of course!
This morning  was a city tour: the new part and old town...first stop at a beautiful park with rose garden ( can't believe the roses are still in bloom, since Fall arrived a couple weeks ago here....statue of Chopin with tree branches in very unique design...day was a bit rainy, so pics may not be too detailed...bought a set of lovely postcards- they can tell the story of this area.  Local guide was very informative ( they have to use the local guides in each city..licensed and knowledgeable in the history and arts)..'Margaret' chatted as we walked and I heard all about local life in Warsaw..she loves USA and has visited a few times. She thinks Krakow is the 'best city in Poland'---( former capital until a fire destroyed the palace..alas, the king had to find a new palace to live in..ended up in Warsaw )...
The castle in Warsaw is kind of plain....so, we didn't do the inside tour....the churches, however, are works of art!  Gorgeous stained glass that told stories, because not everyone could read, so pictures told the story......One church is dedicated to the Black Madonna, which has a couple versions of why she was considered miraculous..take your pick!
Strolled and shopped in Old Town:  beautiful lace table topper and lace doilies ( I know, I know, what to do with all these doilies?), pretty carved wooden boxes, gingerbread ornaments/ miniature gingerbread houses....
Ventured on our own via local bus back to the hotel..stopped at the snazzy mall and did okay with shopping in foreign stores----English is not widely spoken- even in the shops...but a few more hand gestures and visa did the trick...
We're having a good 'ole time...a bit tiring, but we can rest on the train tomorrow...
Getting ready to celebrate David's birthday in Krakow on Friday...our friend Tom Herkey already send greetings in Polish..way to go, Tom!
If I don't update the blog in Krakow, I'll finish it at home .
Thanks for joining in our travels, once again:)

Moving South

Few more thoughts on Villnius, Lithuania before we travel on to Poland...
Villnius seems more affluent..people well-dressed, upscale shops across the square from the Old Town..and some lovely buildings ( mix of Art Nouveau and Baroque).  One church ( catholic looked very plain from the outside...hmmmm why are we bothering with this one? ) Then, inside was all bas relief walls- very intricate designs carved into the walls and all white!  so pretty..
English is not widely spoken or understood...so lots of gestures.  So far, I have been able to avoid any wayward hand signs that could spell trouble...Visa and a little smile go a long way:)  Local artisans have some really pretty crafts:  they grow flax and make linen items....lots of linen tableware etc, purses, and clothing.
Not sure who gets the $$, but the 'wc's' all require local money....gotta time your potty breaks to coincide with the exchange bureau so you have lita or whatever you need ( remember way back, we had pay toilets in US..it cost .10).

Food:  local beer; all wine is imported as the climate does not support grape-growing...but the prices for wine are very fair....foodwise:  lots of sausage, ham, cheese ( made in LIthuania..and some exported to US...that was surprising).  Some cute restaurants with alcoves and outdoor seating/umbrellas ( of course we're inside...my family won't even eat outdoors in summer...too close to nature, I guess).  Breakfast buffets have been pretty hearty.....hopefully, all the walking and stair-climbing will balance out all the hearty food!

So, on the bus ride from Lithuania to Poland ( about 7 hours), we were stopped by the polizia ( bit scarey after hearing all the tour guide's stories of Russian occupation and how easily people disappeared...remember, they've only gained independence since 1991).  So, the driver scurried around pulling out papers and permits...seemed a bit nervous...sat for about a half hour...then, he was given his clearance to go on ( this was not even at the border, just along the route)..guess they're always looking to make money and find a bus or truck without proper paperwork or with some faulty- sometimes made-up- safety issue....so three cheers for our bus driver!
In Warsaw now:  hotel is right across from gorgeous mall--very modern with glass and steel design and several stories...top is atrium....grocery store is on lower level.....fun to stroll around...the mall connects to the train station- how handy!
So the tour guide walked over with several of us to check train tickets and some others who were buying tickets...line was very long, so we got general info about where to board etc ( cause we already have tickets) at the information desk........Later, lo and behold, 2 travel buddies said they tried to buy tickets for the train we were taking the next day at 10:00 and they said 'there is no train at 10:00'.....so after dinner, we trekked back ( guide in tow) and sure enough, they had cancelled our train.....( next one was about 1 1/2 hours. later..we would have wasted 2 hours at rr station).  so we were able to change reservation for a fee ( about $9 per person).....must be a new money making scheme:  cancel the train and pay to get on another earlier one.....hard to argue with rr personnel speaking in halting English...anyway, all's well that ends well.  Hopefully, tomorrow, we'll be in Krakow bright and early ( they call it the Boston of Poland..can't wait).

After a day of 'bussing', I was able to enjoy the spa here:  dim lighting, relaxed atmosphere, hot tub, sauna and gym...ahhhh!  I had the place to myself around 9:00 last night.....
this morning we will have a tour of Old Town ( yes- another World Heritage site)....part of it by bus, part on foot...gotta see if they have those pretty cobblestone streets and alleys....most of the Old Towns that are listed as World Heritage sites get that status either because they survived the war and are so well preserved or because they reconstructed the sites in such an authentic manner.....it's just  so amazing to see some buildings that are hundreds of years old ( the oldest one was a church that was 700 years old!!!  They sure built them to last!).

In case I don't get a chance to update in Krakow ( never know how the hotel business ctr will be), I read about the salt mines..several people in our group had been there and just raved!  It wasn't on 'Jan's Plan' but I think we'll try to squeeze it in...It is listed as one of the 10 best museums/attractions in the world ( does that beat a World Heritage Site?)....and we'll check out a gorgeous castle.....Town Square is trhe largest Medieval square in Europe....supposed to be great for people-watching and soaking up the local flavor.

a few words about the 'group' and then I'll leave you....we have everything from 'Texas long horn sweatshirts' to Southern Belle head-to-toe perfect.....it's mostly an older crowd, of course ( imagine us as the youngsters!) ..there's one couple from CA , about our age, that we've been hanging out with at dinner..lots of interesting travel stories ....and a young couple ( she's 6 months pregnant)- not sure where they're from; they kinda keep to themselves.  And, 2 older men from the Villages in Florida ( hey, Kath, your fellow Villagers are scooting around Europe!).....Tour guide is lively and probably mid 30's..very pleasant and well-spoken ( some of the other tours- same company- have guides who have quite an accent..bit hard to understand)...we lucked out with a small group of 18 and a good guide ( not to mention the great bus driver).
Time to read about our next adventure.....Bye for now

Lithuania

So, we were strolling along a lovely path in the park:  winding walks, flowers- even in Fall here ( they say Fall start 9-1 here...I think  the real Fall starts today, doesn't it?)..anyway, we crossed a cute bridge over water and saw dozens of locks/padlocks , with names inscribed on them, through the bridge metal-work...we asked the tour guide and were told:  bride and groom on their wedding day lock a padlock on the bridge and throw the key into the river...it seals their love forever..ahh, how sweet is that? 

Okay- back to amber. We went to amber museum today...amber is formed from resin of trees, then about a zillion years later, it forms a soft amber stone...it gets processed and sometimes mixed with other material to form different colors..the ones with the bugs in them are very rare ( our friend Carmen told us about this in Prague)....and some of the amber gets into the soil and washed to the shore- then it washes ashore in places like Estonia on the Baltic Sea and is collected in nets --processed and sold throughout the world. The stone is very light-weight ( feels as light as plastic) so you have to be sure to buy amber from a reputable store, rather than the outdoor vendors; the "test is to light it with a match and see if it burns ...plastic will melt....bit hard to do the "test" in the stores:) Since this is another World Heritage Site, I felt I had to make a contribution, so I just bought a white ( more rare) amber stone set in silver..quite striking  and white amber earrings ( Santa may be done Christmas shopping:) 

We're also trying very hard to learn all the cheers and toasts for each contry...bit of a challenge with 5 countries...the ones I remember are: traveseck and keepus ( Latvian and Finnish).  So, for all of my Sept birthday friends and anniversary celebrants, we had a "toast" for each of you- really!!

An optional tour today was Trakai castle..quite a pretty setting on 5 lakes....this restored red brick castle complete with moats and drawbridges and knights in armour...toured this with a local guide and got the "skinny" on what was happening in the 15th century..the original castle just plain wore out...and it remained vacant for 200 years..new one was started late 20th century...it sure wasn't a warm and fuzzy kind of home...drafty and big and very high ceilings...fun to see the castle and the gorgeous setting ( Megan- there was a marina on one of the lakes..all sailboats..funny to see the old style castle and modern sailboats).  Artisans set up booths along walkway, but we didn't have much extra time to shop- alas!
Today's walking tour was throughout the Old Town...3 hours walking and part bus tour..sure getting our walks in!
Off to Poland early tomorrow...so, bye for now.

Lithuania

Well. here I am in the business ctr using their computer..let's see how this goes..
Drive here was through a lot of countryside and  tour guide told of the history and oppression of the past. They have a great sense of patriotism, and exhibit it through song fests and regional costumes ( NOT to worry: I will not try to join the songfest or kareoke..surely that would cause an international hub-bub).  The tour director's daughter joined us for a walking tour ( they live in Riga)..cute as can be...and she sang for us on the bus..her name is Katarina ( so, naturally, we told her we had a "Katarina" also).

I don't think I mentioned that the Old Towns of the Baltic Nations are all listed as World Heritage Sites ( I know I counted on Megan to keep track while we were in Australia....you keep a tally, but I think it will be on the low side....thanks, Megan).
Interesting bits about the amber..so popular here and Poland and Czech Republic: it washes  ashore and is captured in nets..it takes many years to achieve the appearance that you see in the shops....the colors result from effects of processing - like air---light color amber..green amber- grass mixed in...red and gold..who knows?  I could probably make something up...what the heck?  I ran out of "good" waiting to buy amber in Poland...so, last night we found a cute jewelry store and boosted the economy of Latvia- as a patriotic gesture, of course!!  So, act surprised when y'all get amber jewelry from Santa....the colors and designs just catch your eye and tempt you....
Economy took a bit of a plunge since joining the EU..inflation is around 17%..yikes!  Good thing the tourists spend so freely....The teachers and librarians are paid by the state...around $500-$600 US per month..can you imagine?  Needless to say, there's a shortage of people in  these professions..any takers???? Of course we could live like kings and queens here IF we brought our US funds with us....
One of the first things we did here in Lithuania was climb to the top of castle hill..well- the plan was to climb...being the woosies that we are,  we took the funicular...remember that from Paris, Megan and Kate?  Anyway, it's a cross between a glass elevator and a gondola ride UP the steep hill...gorgeous views from the top...one room had  suits of armour, so of course I took a pictture of David next to one...only to find out, pics were not allowed...oh, well..it's not going to melt the metal armour...hmmmm
One more thought before HH:  the art and architechture has changed from Art Nouveaus to Baroque..quite ornate.....lots of catholic churches here.....I'm sure we'll see the "cream of the crop" tomorrow....
On to the castle tour- inside too- on a lake setting--tomorrow.
Hope all is well with our family and friends who are travelling along with us  ...thanks for "staying tuned"---
I'll check in when I can 

latvia

coach trip to rigas, latvia......about 4 hours .stopped at beach- powdery white sand...perfect for strolling....no one swimming; tooooo brrrrr..this would be a wonderful vacation spot in warmer weather..the beach just goes on and on....
Did Old Town on our own...top of  St Peter's cathedral had great view; 72 meters high..lots of terra cotta roofs...narrow cobblestone alleys- looks like a postcard...
English is not widely spoken, so lots of hand gestures ( gotta be careful!)
food is hearty...like those folks eating outdoors.....
sorry this is not so newsy, but computer is pretty slow and unreliable...bye for now. 
PS : When I reread this, it sounds like mostly all shopping and eating ( and a few drinks).....we really did a mix of things: a bit of "highlights", strolling through narrow streets  without the group, ducking into an interesting building- whether it was a church or artisan shop or cafe or apartment building ( we  were able to see the inside of one gorgeous "apartment" that was being renovated..the details were gorgeous.  If you renovate in some areas, it has to be  in a certain style- in keeping with the art of that period etc). Views from the bridges are usually lovely..fortified walls look huge and imposing and, of course, great views of the land below.